Roast for 30 minutes. The bacon and sausage should be cooked through and crisp at this point; you can remove them and set them aside. Use a thin, large spatula to lift and turn the potatoes and peppers; return them to the oven for another 5 to 10 minutes, or until potatoes are tender. When potatoes are tender, scatter spinach on top, return to oven for 5 minutes; it will wilt quickly. Use your spatula to mix all of your roasted ingredients together. Scatter black beans over (this will warm them), crumble or chop bacon, if using, and return it or the sausage to the tray so everything’s in one place.

Prepare eggs: Whisk your eggs together in a large bowl until lightly beaten. Season well with salt (I use 1/2 to 1 teaspoon kosher) and many grinds of black pepper. Heat your largest frying pan over medium-high heat. Once it’s hot, add a bit of oil to the pan and heat it too. Once the oil is hot, add your eggs. Let them cook for 20 to 30 seconds before beginning to move and turn them in spatula-wide sections. When eggs are mostly cooked but still a tiny bit runny, scrape them into a bowl. The residual heat of the eggs should cook them to about the 95% mark; they’ll finish cooking as you warm your burritos.

Assemble burritos: Place a large square of foil on your counter. Place first tortillla over it. [I find mine are soft enough to wrap without tearing from the bag, but if yours are not, lay it on a pan in the probably still residually warm oven for a minute or two to soften (but not dry out).] Eyeball about 1/8 of the vegetable mixture and scoop it into the center, followed by a little salsa (I use 1 to 2 tablespoons per burrito), 1/8 the eggs, cheese to taste, plus whatever fixings you cannot live without.

Roll the burrito tightly by folding the sides over the filling then rolling from the bottom up. Wrap in foil the same way; folding the foil first over the ends of the burrito (ideally forming a “cup” at each end to catch drips, although my kids just see this as a challenge).

If eating right away: I rewarm the foil-wrapped burritos on a tray for 5 minutes in a 350-degree oven. (This is just to get everything hot again and melt the cheese.)

To freeze: Place foil-wrapped burritos in a freezer bag and press all of the air out. They will keep in the freezer for 2 months.

To warm from the freezer in the oven: I place the foil-wrapped burritos on a tray in a 350-degree oven for 30 to 40 minutes (turn over halfway) to heat them through. Depending on how cold your freezer is and how packed the burritos are, it could take more or less time. To check, press a toothpick through the foil into the center of a burrito and pull it out; if the toothpick feels warm or hot, the burrito is heated. If it’s cold (it will be clear if it’s cold), it needs more time.

To warm from the freezer in a microwave: Remove foil and microwave for 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 minutes, turning burrito over halfway. I find microwaves range a bit in defrosting times so you might find you need more or less.

To defrost in the fridge and warm in the oven: If you’re a plan-ahead type, you can let it begin defrosting in the fridge overnight. I heat these the same way I do frozen ones, but check 10 minutes sooner. I highly recommend not leaving burritos in flour tortillas in the fridge for more than a day; the wetness of the fillings can make the wrappers mushy or soggy.

Finally, I can just about guarantee that you will not regret if you double this recipe. The pancakes keep well in the fridge and can also be frozen.

PANCAKES

1 cup (8 to 8 1/4 ounces) roasted and mashed winter squash

1/3 cup (80 grams) yogurt or sour cream

2 large eggs

1/2 cup (about 30 grams) finely grated gruyere, comte or parmesan

3/4 teaspoon fine sea or table salt

A few grinds of black pepper

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 cup (130 grams) all-purpose flour

Butter or olive oil for frying pan




TO FINISH

2 to 3 tablespoons butter

A pinch or two of salt

A few fresh sage leaves

Heat a large frying over medium-low to medium heat. Coat the bottom with butter or olive oil, or a combination thereof, and spoon in pancake batter, a heaped soup spoon or scant 1/4 cup at a time. Press the back of the batter mound to flatten the pancake slightly. Cook until golden brown underneath, flip and then cook until the color until golden brown on the second side. If this is happening very fast, lower your heat. If you’re worried pancakes have not cooked in the center, you can finish them for 10 minutes in a 250 degrees oven. You can also keep your pancakes warm there until needed. Repeat with remaining batter.

To finish, wipe out frying pan and place butter, a pinch or two of salt and sage leaves back in it, heating over medium. The sage leaves will crisp and the butter will brown in a minute or two so keep a close watch on it. Pour leaves and butter over pancakes and quickly understand why you’ll never have them another way.

To roast squash: For butternut or kabocha, I halve the squash, scoop out the seeds and roast it face-down on an oiled baking sheet that I’ve sprinkled with coarse salt at 375 for 40 to 50 minutes, until tender. I get about 2 cups mashed squash from one 2-pound (i.e. small-medium) whole squash. If yours is already peeled and in, say, 1-inch chunks, it will likely be tender in just 25 minutes (just updated after rechecking my notes).